Firearms and Shooting

If you’ve got either a K/L frame or N frame that you need grips for, I’d really recommend getting some from VZ. They add some weight, mine specifically added 1.7 ounces over the factory wood grips, but they’re extremely comfortable and extremely durable. I put two cylinders full of my uncle’s 200 grain XTP’s over a case full of H110 through this thing and the grips never gave me problems, no pain or difficulty in keeping the gun in hand and back on target. And VZ also has some of the best shipping I’ve seen, $9 flat rate for 2-Day UPS Air.

Just one thing to keep in mind is that you definitely don’t want checkering, especially the very aggressive VZ checkering patterns, on a gun that kicks this much. It would really chew up your hands. The as-milled finish they call VZ 320 would be the way to go.

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jasonstone20
Ryan,
Nice. I think you will like the shoulder holster. I used a Ted Blocker Lifeline holster for years, still have it in fact.

I think you’ve proved to be correct about that. After some adjustments to get it fitting like I want it to, it’s looking like a very solid system. The gun and two reloads, all in one package. And I don’t even need anything like specific pants and belts to get it done. It actually conceals better than I thought it would, too, just throw an open button-up over it and it’s not particularly noticeable. A cop or soldier may spot it but a random civilian isn’t likely to.

The holster is molded for this exact model, too:

Ryan,
Nice! I had my shoulder rig customized to carry another pistol and double magazine carrier, along with my flashlight and handcuffs. Barely noticed the extra weight. I would just clip my Benchmade Nimvarus in an inverted position on one of the shoulder straps also.

"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage." -- Cliff Stamp, May his memory be a blessing
"Life is GOOD", -- Stefan_Wolf, May His Memory Be A Blessing
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2021 08:17AM by jasonstone20.

I’ve got a couple of tricks to minimize time the scale bounces around. The Lee scoops that come with the dies are pretty close, and then a powder trickler adds the rest pretty quickly. Certain powders are very reliable through the powder measure. I cannot speak for Unique. Generally stick powders won’t work very well. H335 meters through it with less than 1% variation for its charge weight of 25 grains. When I weighed them the charges varied 0.1 grains or less. Pistol charges, even 44 magnum, are relatively small and your caution is justified until you’re confident enough in the powder measure. The one limitation of the Lee scale is capacity. It only goes to 150 grains, which is certainly enough for powder. However if you want to sort bullets by weight it’s not enough for most rifle bullets.

If you look into high precision lab scales be aware you need one that measures to the nearest milligram. Our lab scales go to the nearest 10 milligrams and that’s not quite enough if you need to go to 0.1 grains. Yes they can be quite expensive.

The Lehigh bullets work well. They made me a bit nervous because they were a little tougher to crimp than usual. They shot well out of the Shield and excellent at the higher loads from the M&P9. I had to call Lehigh, as the load data has 2 versions but for different bullets. I have to confirm the best group from the M&P9, otherwise I have the load I want to use.

Have any of you guys used a Marble Arms tang-mounted peep sight before? Typically these are only used on lever-actions or single-shots.

No but I’d like to try. I have a peep on my 336 now but it’s not a vernier tang style. It screws to the top instead of a scope rail.

I had an elevation problem with the Winchester rifle. The rear sight wouldn’t move down enough to actually get it zeroed, I was still shooting 8” high at 50 yards. But a Marble Arms peep sight appears to have solved the problem. I just did a quick couple of shots at 35 yards to see if it actually did what I wanted it to do, and it looks like I’ll have absolutely no problem getting a 100 yard zero.





And for defensive ammo, with the 629, I decided to try some Buffalo Bore stuff. It’s a much softer bullet with a much wider hollow point than the XTP, and I got a 6-round average of 1,275 FPS. Recoil remains noticeable but not painful.

Those are some nice looking rounds for the 629. I tried the Lehigh defense bullets again today and they remain the most accurate defensive bullets for my guns, shooting closer to point of aim than others as well as getting tighter groups. I just have to find a good powder load for them. I have enough brass cleaned to load the rest which I’ll probably load at minimum charge, as that shoots pretty well from both 9s.

I have a receiver mounted peep sight on my Marlin 336 and just added a front Patridge blade highlighted with orange. This replaced the original bead sight. The factory sights were adequate, but I like these better and they are easier to zero for all the different loads I use. Ranger Point Precision makes the rear aperture sight and Skinner makes the front Patridge blade and dovetail filler I used to fill the empty dovetail slot from the original rear sight.

Ryan I have a similar problem with the factory sights on my Henry 22 lever action. It won’t zero at 50 yards with the factory sights. The lowest it will go is about 4 to 5 inches high at that range with high velocity 1250 fps type ammo, currently a box of Remington Thunderbolt. Henry sent a taller front sight and that lowered the point of impact too much. I can get a dead on zero, but it’s at 25 yards and the rear sight is on the highest notch in the rear elevation ramp.

I shoot a huge variety of ammo from this rifle. I go from the 1250 fps high velocity ammo commonly available to 1070-1100 fps standard velocity stuff, then all the way to the 750 fps CB and Quiet ammo. The Marbles sight would solve that if I could find one, but it would need to be cheaper than a fixed 4x scope.

I’m also currently researching front sight blades/posts/apertures for long range (300 yard) shooting with iron sights, if anyone has any suggestions. I’m trying to figure out if a V post would be better or if I should go with a front sight aperture target style sight. I can hit a 12” target regularly with the standard factory post, but I feel like a finer post or blade would make it easier.

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me2
I have a receiver mounted peep sight on my Marlin 336 and just added a front Patridge blade highlighted with orange.

Those are nice and in a lot of ways they’re a better option than a tang-mounted sight. Much more robust and they don’t interfere with the grip, but in some cases (my 1895 as an example) they aren’t an easy option because the receiver isn’t a solid-top design like a Marlin or Henry. The upside is that they’re much closer to the eye and also extend the sight radius a bit.

The front sight bead on my rifle is about 0.080” wide and the mid-size aperture is 0.055” wide, which means that the sight picture is literally more than twice as fine/precise as the stock sights (0.105” wide rear notch) while still offering a more clear and less obscured view of the target.

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me2
Ryan I have a similar problem with the factory sights on my Henry 22 lever action.

One option is a sight made by Skinner specifically for the Henry .22’s and it would almost certainly work because of the taller front sight that Henry already sent you:

[www.skinnersights.com]

Their “rimfire groove sight” model. Probably will work. And would be cheaper and more carry-friendly than a decent scope unless you’re looking at a really inexpensive one.

It’s been a long time since I’ve extensively shot with iron sights on a rifle, and I’ve only killed one deer with irons, so I’m gonna be practicing with the 1895 occasionally through the summer and fall and then try it out for deer hunting this year.

For pure entertainment I prefer iron sights. Something Olde Schoole about it. The Henry is an enigma. I’m not sure what to do with it yet. It’s a wonderfully accurate rifle and probably deserves a scope. At 25 yards it will cut single hole groups within the test scope I tried. I’m looking at a Sightmark but I really want the factory sights to work. I am a fan of peep sights and that model might be a good solution. If it’s an option and you can change the front sight, I’d recommend a blade sight instead of the bead. I tried both and the 0.065” blade I have now is considerably easier to use based on my limited trials with it. I can use a center hold on 12” targets at 100 yards with the new blade, but had to use a 6 o’clock hold with the bead. I currently have it sighted in 2.5” high at 100 yards with my plinking load, a 110 grain FMJ meant for 30 Carbine loads. I don’t prefer the fairly coarse adjustments of the Skinner rear sights. The peep I have on the 336 is infinitely adjustable through its range in both windage and elevation. However, that might be my best option.

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me2
If it’s an option and you can change the front sight, I’d recommend a blade sight instead of the bead. I tried both and the 0.065” blade I have now is considerably easier to use based on my limited trials with it. I can use a center hold on 12” targets at 100 yards with the new blade, but had to use a 6 o’clock hold with the bead.

The only company that made a blade front for these modern-production 1895’s was XS, and I’d really like to find one, but unfortunately they’re discontinued. And they don’t sell just the blade, either, it would come with a rear sight that gets mounted on the bolt, which I wouldn’t need.

The bead works well in the sense that the bead itself is the point of impact, you put it where you want to hit and that’s all there is to it. But as you mentioned the problem is that as ranges get longer and targets get smaller, the precision does drop accordingly. A brass (or gold) bead is also harder to see than white or orange paint on a post, so it can be challenging to use in dim lighting.

I’ve heard people say to use the bead like a red dot. Put the thing on the thing and press the thing. I’m not really a fan of red dots but I would like to try one on my Victory target pistol.

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me2
I’ve heard people say to use the bead like a red dot. Put the thing on the thing and press the thing.

On rifles, that’s how they’re meant to be used.

Sometimes on shotguns also, though that depends on the individual gun and the way it’s set up. Often shotguns are designed to have the bead held below the target, especially with shotguns designed specifically for clays or birds. With small moving targets you really want to be able to see the whole thing and track the movement of it without obscuring it with the sight. Just try shooting clays with a shotgun that’s got rifle-type sights, it’s extremely difficult.

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me2
I’ve heard people say to use the bead like a red dot. Put the thing on the thing and press the thing. I’m not really a fan of red dots but I would like to try one on my Victory target pistol.

I recently determined that I have an astigmatism in both of my eyes. This is why, when I look through my red dot scope, I see what looks like a cluster of dots in an amorphous group and not a nice round dot.

Apparently prismatic scopes would solve this issue, and they still work even if you lose power. I plan on trying one out eventually.


Chumgeyser on Youtube
E-nep throwing Brotherhood. Charter Member

For load testing purposes I really like the variable scope I have on my 223 and 308. However for practical purposes I think a fixed 3x for my 223 and a fixed 6x for the 308 would work fine. A prism scope from Vortex or someone similar would be good. They aren’t much lighter, but they don’t make it look like I bought a rifle to go with my scope. I do have an issue with how cluttered some of the reticles are.

Chum,
I have a similar issue, although I get the 'comet' or 'comma' type of distortion to the red dot.

"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage." -- Cliff Stamp, May his memory be a blessing
"Life is GOOD", -- Stefan_Wolf, May His Memory Be A Blessing
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I have astigmatism also. I can hardly use a red dot. When I do I use the center of the blob of dots. Not great for precision work, but it's ok for up close work. I have a 1x prism scope from Primary Arms. My experience is that the chevron is so small that it's hard to use. Forget about using any other features of the reticle. They are way to small. I also have problems focusing the reticle.
I may try a 3x or 5x prism scope and see if I can see the chevron better. It seems like the chevron should be bigger on a higher magnification prism optic.
I have tried a LPVO scope and it is better, I can see the reticle clearly. When you are old and your eyes are not young anymore, your options are limited.

It sounds like we are a bunch of old farts
These See All sights look interesting. Some shooters love them...




Chumgeyser on Youtube
E-nep throwing Brotherhood. Charter Member

We are a bunch of old farts.

If you guys are old farts, I think that makes me a fart. Just a fart.

After getting the rifle zeroed at 55 yards, I took a standing offhand shot at the same distance, on a cold barrel, to see if I could hit the intended target.

Given that the deer on the target is slightly smaller than the real thing, it looks like I’ll have no problems making clean kills at my typical hunting ranges.

I also shot 2 separate strings of 3-round rapid fire, firing as fast as I thought I could hit it. The overall group opened up to about 7” when doing that, but all 6 rounds would have been lethal hits. This rifle cycles extremely smoothly and quickly, the three shots getting off in less than 4 seconds, and I can keep the target in view through the sights while shooting in rapid-fire.

It should be a very solid tool for scenarios where my 7mm Rem Mag rifle is simply too bulky and slow-handling for optimal results.

This looks like a good 1x prism scope:
[www.primaryarms.com]
[www.youtube.com]




"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage." -- Cliff Stamp, May his memory be a blessing
"Life is GOOD", -- Stefan_Wolf, May His Memory Be A Blessing
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jasonstone20
This looks like a good 1x prism scope:
[www.primaryarms.com]
[www.youtube.com]

Agreed.


Chumgeyser on Youtube
E-nep throwing Brotherhood. Charter Member

Anyone into casting bullets? I’m looking for some info to decide if I want to get into it. The reduced loads are appealing as well as just knowing how to do it. Reduced loads and 175 grain cast lead bullets would boost powder efficiency and stretch a pound from about 200 rounds to 700 under ideal circumstances. I’m ok with the velocity reduction down to 1500 fps for target purposes.

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me2
Anyone into casting bullets? I’m looking for some info to decide if I want to get into it.

I discussed that with my uncle a while ago when we were making some ammo for my .44 Mag. After looking at the cost of the supplies, the time required, cost of lead ingots, and comparing that to the cost of simpy buying lead bullets, we decided this:

Unless you’ve got ready access to a supply of free lead, don’t mind spending a lot of time on it, don’t mind the health risks of working extensively with raw lead, and have a space to do it in, it’s just not worth it. Cost savings are very minimal relative to the time and tools investment.

Yes that’s all true. One likely won’t see a return on investment unless one is a competitor and shoots enough to be competitive. Still, it’s like making your own knives. It’s way cheaper to get them from Walmart. I kinda want to do it just to learn how, and I’m interested in the reduced loads cast bullets offer. I have some on the way to see if I can get them to work. If so the rest of the equipment is not too bad and I have a place to do it at my parents. It’s a natural fit to my 30-30. I’m also interested in some other calibers that do make casting viable as long as a source of lead can be found, like 45 Colt and 45-70.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2021 12:54AM by me2.