Harbor Freight 1x30 Belt Sander

Thanks!

It's not perfect and there are things I will do differently next time, but I'm very pleased with the outcome.

-Nate

Recently ordered some stuff on Amazon and threw in a 5-pack of 1/4" micro flow control valves for my drip line. Just tested one and they should work very well. I will keep the existing quick connect valve pictured earlier and installed the new control valve below, so I now have an on/off switch and the micro valve for fine control.

Here is what I purchased:
[www.amazon.com]

-Nate

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Chum

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Price_is_Right

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Chum
I ended up with a 1x30, a few 80 grit belts, the 120 grit belts that come with the grinder and a belt cleaner. Thanks for the help guys

Chum don't forget eye protection and respirator.

Check and check. I bought a respirator, a face shield (already have several pairs of saftey glasses) and a box of nitrile gloves.

What's the reasoning for needing the nitrile gloves?

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Nothingman
What's the reasoning for needing the nitrile gloves?

Someone suggested it as you tend to get a lot of metal dust and assorted crap on your hands when using the belt sander. I think I used them once or twice. It was making the grinding more difficult.


Chumgeyser on Youtube
E-nep throwing Brotherhood. Charter Member

Awesome! Does it have a port for attaching and exhaust tube? Great water drip cooling system!

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Stone Sharp Edges
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"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage.

-Cliff"

"Roman Landes said:
Cause geometry cuts, .....steel determines the level and the duration"

You may be able to attach a vacuum hose to the belt housing cover, but I don't know how effective it would be and if you're grinding wet I doubt it would do anything at all.

If you do go the 1X30 route and want to do a water drip, I have a few extra micro valves. Just pm me if you want one. (They're really inexpensive, but come in packs of 5. I only needs two, tops )

-Nate

Nate-
I just looked at the picture, and it looks like it has a exhaust system hook up on the bottom left hand side.

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Stone Sharp Edges
[www.youtube.com] [www.facebook.com] [www.instagram.com]

"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage.

-Cliff"

"Roman Landes said:
Cause geometry cuts, .....steel determines the level and the duration"

Cool, that's what I was trying to describe, but wasn't positive it was meant for exhaust.

-Nate

I did a better write up on my simple water-cooled HF 1x30 mod to post on bf. If anyone has any critical feedback on the accuracy of the content, the risks, or omissions in what I've shared, please let me know.

thread

-Nate



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2016 06:45PM by Nate T.

Have revisited this thread over the past few years with the intention of getting around to building one of these rigs. 2017 is the year!

I read the BF thread, so got most of the details. The pictured grinding results above are very impressive.

Questions:

1) With the flow rate on the micro valve, how much grinding can you get through before the bottle must be filled? [Obviously, if I run to an issue... bigger bottle!]

2) Have you solved the issue of dripped water being flung off of the belt and not being transferred to the grinding point?

3) Do you find that you need a vacuum attached to the "dust" port with this set-up?

4) How long do you find it takes to accomplish a grinding project (take the folder pictured above, for instance) with the drip set-up on the 1x30?

Cheers!

[edit: read through this thread and answered a few questions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2017 08:56PM by CharlesB.

Hi Charles,

Keep in mind that I still basically consider myself a rank amatuer, but the 1x30" has been a great investment for my needs and I'll give you my $0.02:

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CharlesB

Questions:

1) With the flow rate on the micro valve, how much grinding can you get through before the bottle must be filled? [Obviously, if I run to an issue... bigger bottle!]

I'd say roughly 5-10 minutes, but it will vary depending on the where the micro-valve is set. I sort of go by feel and adjust as I go. I want a steady drip, but don't want water going everywhere.

I've also never actually run out of water. Negative pressure builds up in the bottle as it empties, slowing the drip. This could be addressed with a pinhole in the top of the inverted bottle (the bottom,) but I haven't bothered. Not a big deal to me to just pause and refill.

2) Have you solved the issue of dripped water being flung off of the belt and not being transferred to the grinding point?

I know you found some info here, but on my setup I think the spark shield helps. I also always use the tip I got to wet the belt with an old paintbrush dipped in water, pretty much every time I switch it on.

3) Do you find that you need a vacuum attached to the "dust" port with this set-up?

I've never used it. I typically wear my respirator as a precaution, along with eye protection, but have never noticed any airborne dust. The slag just collects inside the housing in wet clumps that look like steel wool. Easy cleanup.

4) How long do you find it takes to accomplish a grinding project (take the folder pictured above, for instance) with the drip set-up on the 1x30?

Something like the Enlan regrind took me maybe 20-25 minutes total I think? A lot will depend on the belts. With a new coarse-grit ceramic belt, actual material removal will be very fast. Higher grits or worn belts will be slower, which may be helpful when you're first getting started. Most of my "grinding" time is in setup, checking progress, switching belts, etc...

Cheers!

Hope this helps! Would like to hear how it goes if you proceed.

Also, if I was just getting started again, I might look at trying to use a pump action spray nozzle like CKC shared in the other thread, but the drip line works well enough for me that I haven't messed with it.

-Nate