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Japanese Style Vs. Western Style Sharpening

Posted by jasonstone20 
Japanese Style Vs. Western Style Sharpening
August 26, 2018 05:14PM
I use a mixture of techniques depending on the knives and sharpening stones I am using, but for kitchen knives, which do you prefer for:
Using waterstones?
Using oilstones?
Sharpening Chef's or Slicer Knives?
Sharpening Utility or Paring Knives?
What do you do for finishing passes or stones?

"I am still discussing issues of steels and performance at this stage."
--Cliff Stamp

"Cause geometry cuts, .....steel determines the level and the duration"
--Roman Landes

"But in general, I'm all about high performance, Ergos, safety. That's why I've been accused of 'designing in the dark' "
--Sal Glesser



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/26/2018 05:17PM by jasonstone20.
me2
Re: Japanese Style Vs. Western Style Sharpening
September 02, 2018 10:01AM
I find using the Norton Economy as a starting point for nearly all my knives to be convenient. I only use water stones on my Tojiro petty and Misuzu bunka. All the stainless kitchen knives get the treatment with the Norton Economy, sometimes followed by the Sharpmaker. They get beat up so much, it's not worth breaking out the water stones every time.
Re: Japanese Style Vs. Western Style Sharpening
September 02, 2018 10:35AM
Norton crystolon coarse + fine India for western stainlessness double bevel

300-1200 King +natural (black or translucent ark. Or European equivalent)4k+ for microbevel for carbon steel double bevel knives

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Re: Japanese Style Vs. Western Style Sharpening
September 17, 2018 12:13AM
For folders I like small pocket diamond stones (along the lines of a DC4 size and shape) done with Cliffs plateau method. Finish at about Spyderco UF bench stone or CC4 with few edge leading pps.

For kitchen knives, if cheap ones, just a quick scrub on a double sided Atoma 600/1200 will do. winking smiley Maybe a few edge leading pps on the Spyderco UF stone to finish. Plateau method. If decent/good knives I’ll always use waterstones and finish at 5k-12k
I have a $10 Chinese cleaver in some mystery stainless that is ok for the kitchen, I’ll sharpen that on anything. Norton’s do it well and I’ll use the Norton bear coarse/fine for just about any flat ground knife if I want it done fast.

For my outdoors knives - which are almost all full convex and single bevels - I like waterstones so use them in a traditional like manner. Always edge leading passes except with the convex blades which are edge trailing; all finished on 8k or 12k slightly higher degrees than the bevel, edge leading. It’s like a traditional X Plateau method apex finish. I have the Shapton HNK (pros) and M24 series, and the Chosera series so I use them on knives worth taking more than a few minutes. But I seriously can’t be bothered pulling them out for a knife with a tiny secondary bevel as it seems like a waste of time when it can be done on diamond or a norton in a few minutes.

I always use a small micro bevel regardless of the knife type. I don’t currently own any kitchen knives worth mentioning in any detail.

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