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Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?

Posted by tja 
tja
Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 29, 2019 04:49PM
Hello all,

I'm trying to sharpen a sabre whose blade is made from 1065 carbon steel. I have the DMT diafolds extra coarse/coarse (black/blue) and coarse/fine (blue/red), as well a extra extra coarse (silver). The edge was partially sharpened when I bought it but after doing some test cutting, I was rather unhappy with the quality of the edge, so I've been trying to resharpen it. My most recent trial included the following:

1. Cutting the edge off with two light passes into the brown side of a Spyderco DoubleStuff.
2. Placing the hilt of the blade on the floor with the point pointing upwards, pinching the blade with a paper towel in one hand and a stone in the other hand.
2. Trying to set the bevel at ~20dps with the silver DMT.
3. Trying to shaping the edge with the black side of the diafold.

However, I haven't had good results, I can still see light reflecting off the edge even after about 30-45 minutes of trying to shape the edge.

While I fully admit my freehand sharpening technique is probably not the best, I was able to at least sharpen a beatup stainless steel kitchen knive to about 20dps using the same technique and stones (silver/black) so that it can slice paper at least.

I'm requesting feedback as ideas as to what I could be doing wrong. Perhaps I should try to use the blue or red DMT to instead of the black/blue DMT to try to shape the edge and remove the reflection I'ms seeing along the edge? I'm used to using the Spyderco sharpmaker to sharpen knives but that really isn't an option given the length of the sabre blade.

Thank you for your time and patience
Kind regards,
TJA

P.S. There is also a slight chance the sabre is 1095 carbon steel (the manufacturer changed steels at some point so I am not 100% clear what batch my sabre is from).

P.P.S For reference, here's the DMT grit chart: [www.dmtsharp.com]
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 29, 2019 06:26PM
Hi,
How thick is the reflection?
So you're using .... 4 inch stones to sharpen a 36inch blade?

____
Thanks
I don't mow smiling smiley
tja
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 30, 2019 06:18AM
Hi,

I am uncertain how thick the reflection is: is there a way to measure this (I honestly do not know)?

And yes, I'm using 4 inch stones to sharpen a 36 inch blade, although to be fair, I'm mostly unhappy with the sharpening job on the last 6-8 inches of the blade or so and have been focusing my efforts there.

Cheers,
tja
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 30, 2019 12:19PM
I think anything lower than Coarse is maybe overkill for a not so hard steel, but my best guess is that the angles present are uneven and so trying to now sharpen them symmetrically can be a source of frustration, especially if you're doing the same amount of work on either side, so my tip for you is to start over (cut the edge off), and then sharpen it only on one side until it stops reflecting light, at which point you'll likely have a decent burr. Cut it off again, and to the same on the other side, until it stops reflecting again. Cut it off one more time, and since now your angles should pretty much definitely match up, you can try shaping it regularly. If you try this and it does not work, do reply back, I've had decent results with this.
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 30, 2019 04:14PM
Quote
tja
Hi,

I am uncertain how thick the reflection is: is there a way to measure this (I honestly do not know)?

And yes, I'm using 4 inch stones to sharpen a 36 inch blade, although to be fair, I'm mostly unhappy with the sharpening job on the last 6-8 inches of the blade or so and have been focusing my efforts there.

Cheers,
tja
Hi,
Take a mm/cm rulers and put it over the reflection, and see what you can see, it should be easy to estimate 1/3 of mm
Is it more or less than when you started 45min ago?
Paint the edge and bevel with permanent marker, take a few strokes, and see where you're grinding.
Take a few mm measurements of the bevel and describe what you see.


Without seeing what you're seeing,
45minutes on 6inch of blade is a long time even with 1x4in stones,
sounds like you're grinding behind the edge on a very thick blade
(meaning the edge angle is not 20dps),
so lots of steel to remove,
so it'll take as long as it takes,
using the marker and mm ruler will let you know how much progress you're making

I would skip cutting off the apex for sharpening this particular knife
Concentrate on the marker for now

____
Thanks
I don't mow smiling smiley
tja
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
September 30, 2019 06:41PM
@ShaperAndMower

Thanks for the instructions on how to measure the reflections! The thickest reflection is about 1/3 of a mm, the thinnest reflection is perhaps 0.2 mm.

@ShaperAndMower and @Luisknivacc
After painting the edge with a permanent marker, I noted that about 20 passes on the right hand side (using the blue stone) was sufficient to remove the marker, but I needed closer to 200+ passes on the left hand side to remove the marker.

So perhaps @Luisknivacc your hypothesis is correct, that the angles present are even? I remember when I first received the blade a while ago that I thought that it looked like one side had been sharpened far more thoroughly than the other side.

Of course, part of the uneven-ness might also stem from the fact I'm using my non dominant left hand to sharpen the other side of the blade when the blade is held vertically. While I have minor degree of ambidexterity, I'm still far more dexterous with my dominant right hand for now. So perhaps a contributing factor to the the higher number of passes needed on the LHS to remove the marker may be \the fact that my left hand is not as dexterous?
Re: Sharpening 1065 carbon steel sword with DMT diafolds?
October 01, 2019 03:09PM
Dexterity can account for a lot but if you are doing 10x more passes at the same angle on one side you can safely assume that the side that takes longer really was sharpened at a much more shallow angle.

But now that you've gotten to that point you should be fairly symmetrical, now it's just a matter of final sharpening, which you seem to have a decent grasp on what to do.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/01/2019 03:14PM by Luisknivacc.
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