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Sharpening, restoration, modifications and all manner of emergency cpr as required to get her back in fighting condition.
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Re: Picking the right steels - 9 months ago
Jason, You are likely correct and this was the only alternative to how I was wondering it might have been intended to read. The two sets of characteristics definitely are at odds for the most part, I was mostly wondering if INFI was a sort of an outlier in this way from the norm.by YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Picking the right steels - 9 months ago
The other confusing thing to me about Infi being an easy to grind steel, I remember seeing Jerry post something years ago about the change over to Infi from their previous steel (I believe was A2 if not mistaken) caused a massive amount of difficulty grinding for their tooling. I mean if that is the case, it should mean that Infi may have a sort of moderate difficulty in grinding in the sense thby YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Picking the right steels - 9 months ago
Kyley, I guess I got a bit confused reading this about INFI on Bussecombat.com "Edge Retention Many so-called knife experts have heralded the "wear resistance" of a steel as the key to edge retention. This may very well be true if a knife is designed and intended for the cutting of soft materials ONLY. However, we have never inspected a dull knife and found the edge toby YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Knife Hobby Burnout, Taking A Break - 10 months ago
Jason, In my opinion, your condition is probably more like.... I'm Burned Out Myself & Knife Addiction Is Pausedby YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Picking the right steels - 10 months ago
Thanks for the reply, Kyley. Still trying to come to accept Cliff is gone, life can be pretty short. I appreciate your thoughts on Infi, I haven't used enough high carbide steels to say about the grind ability of Infi but it did seem a bit harder than say AEB-L or 52100 at similar hardness.by YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Picking the right steels - 10 months ago
Wow, looks like this last question I had won't be answered then. Sorry to hear of the news of CLiff's death, what an amazing person and I'm glad to have learned much from him here. RIPby YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Picking the right steels - 11 months ago
QuoteCliffStamp Knives used outside can get damaged on a regular basis as materials are not clean. It is ok to do edge retention tests on fresh rope from the store, do it on dirty rope. A lot of these people are promoting "survival" knives, well those knives are going to be used on scavenged material and unless you are camping in a mall, as-found materials are often very dirty. This isby YESH - I am kind of a big deal.
Re: Reground Delica - 1 year ago
If I am not mistaken, you are likely using the King's in the wrong application. The Kind should be used to resharpen or rough grind the edge bevel to apex, then refine on something which does not release abrasives. The Norton Economy might not be the best choice either, as it's somewhat coarse and potentially not minimize the burr effectively like the King would.by YESH - No safe queens
Re: CBN Sharpening "stone" - 1 year ago
It sounds to me like sai might be noticing the burr being pushed around, considering the stone does not create slurry to minimize burr. Overgrinding is easy on these stones to form a burr, especially the 140 I have. I don't think it would be possible to push around steel from this stone unless it was either very high force in grinding (unlikely here) or a VERY soft steel along with higher forceby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: CBN Sharpening "stone" - 1 year ago
Sal, What was the reasoning for going with CBN over Diamond for these stones? I know CBN is more expensive, so I'd imagine you guys found some performance quality that was worth the additional price it comes with. I remember reading somebody here mention that they felt diamonds were not particularly well suited to grinding steel (perhaps in industry, cannot find post to quote) and believed Cby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Measuring Edge Bevel Angle - 1 year ago
Quotesal Hi Jason, Goniometers are the easiest way to determine edge angle. CATRA makes a variety of them including a "home use" version that as I remember is about $100. We use them regularly. I have a small industrial unit at home as well. Edge angle is a particularly important part of performance. sal Is this the one you mention for home use? It's the cheapest one I cby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: CBN Sharpening "stone" - 1 year ago
Wow, this sounds like it would be great for what I need... especially if the 800 does a good job allowing for very sharp edges. When are these going into production, Sal?by YESH - TuneUp's
Spyderco Ceramic Finishing Stones - 1 year ago
I have been looking for a good higher grit (1200-3000 grit) finishing stone for kitchen knife use for a while now, had this idea a while back that rather than getting a diamond plate I could just go with the Spyderco's. The only concern would be keeping it flat and conditioned, but I believe I have a solution for this that will work quite well so it's not a hangup for me. What are other's experby YESH - TuneUp's
Any Problems With This Technique to Change Blade Shape? - 1 year ago
Here's a short video of Ken Schwartz changing the blade shape/profile of Japanese knife that has too much round belly. He grind the knife into the stone 90 degrees, but not the way you'd expect similar to Hap Stanley's jointing method... more like scraping the edge vigorously over the stone sideways. Does something like this concern you from a standpoint of causing damage to the knife throuby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Suehiro Cerax Users? - 1 year ago
Yes, I was planning on purchasing from them also... great store. I am really not concerned so much with long lasting, just that they minimize the burr well and cut reasonably quickly comparative to what you'd expect from their grit ratings. I don't sharpen a high volume, I might only sharpen a couple knives per week maximum. My main curiousity with the Cerax is they do have a good reputationby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Suehiro Cerax Users? - 1 year ago
Yes, I was planning on purchasing from them also... great store. I am really not concerned so much with long lasting, just that they minimize the burr well and cut reasonably quickly comparative to what you'd expect from their grit ratings. I don't sharpen a high volume, I might only sharpen a couple knives per week maximum. My main curiousity with the Cerax is they do have a good reputationby YESH - TuneUp's
Suehiro Cerax Users? - 1 year ago
Anybody here using these stones? I have an interest in the 320 & 1000 for using as muddy bevel setting stones to prep for applying the apex. Do they work well in this regard to minimize the burr? I was also considering the Naniwa Superstone line with a similar combo of 220 or 400 & 1000, which are known to have the desired properties. Also, looking at the King Deluxe lineup withby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Recommendation - Full Size Diamond Plate For Apexing - 1 year ago
QuoteCliffStamp The issue with DMT is that at higher grits you get inconsistent behavior : In short, my mxf DMT was capable of producing a finish more coarse at times than the f dmt. In contrast, the Atoma are perfectly consistent. I am somewhat uncertain about what you mean for the MXF DMT. Was the finish uniformly more coarse than F DMT or simply have some coarse scratches mixed iby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Tormek a video and some comments - 1 year ago
I think it's worth noting a couple things from a perspective of what is done traditionally in Japanese bladesmithing. -After forging to basic shape, the knives are ground along the primary bevel with a rotating Waterstone wheel. -The actual sharpening has always been done on the bench stone sized water stones. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Iby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Tormek T-4 - 1 year ago
That's great advice Kyley, funny that's pretty much what I've done in the past doing this on stones. I guess I had the right approach, it worked pretty well... that's just what I needed to hear. Only reason I was thinking of rocking it was Murray Carter does this a bit when he grinds on a wheel or stone to get a convex shape, I never really put much rocking motion intentionally on stones thoughby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Tormek T-4 - 1 year ago
The thing about getting a belt sander for me, is one of noise and mess mainly. I'd need to be able to grind indoors around family members in the house, as I don't have a workshop area it would likely just sit on an unused table in the house somewhere. I have to imagine it will work well enough, speed is not crucial to me... as what I truly need is something to just do the 'work' for me. I am sby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Blade Thinning - Why You (probably) NEVER need to: Knife Q&A - 1 year ago
Cliff, Which is preferred? Thinning edge or primary?by YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Tormek T-4 - 1 year ago
QuotecKc Nice video on truing and surfacing A few thoughts... - How long must it take to get that badly out of round? It would seem to me this is something you should do relatively frequently, as it should both keeping cutting speeds high AND potentially slow wear on the low spots that develop as I would expect pressure increases there exacerbating the problem - This freshly trued statby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Blade Thinning - Why You (probably) NEVER need to: Knife Q&A - 1 year ago
Carter also advises to take the edge down as much as possible until you notice damage and then just slightly thicken at that point where damage is noted. Still great advice, I remember seeing this years ago on his youtube videos. He has also recommended taking Scandinavia knives and increasing the height of the bevels if you are not happy with how they cut (duh). He basically said it’s much eaby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Tormek T-4 - 1 year ago
Is it just me or does the whole 'grading stone' thing not make any sense? It would seem to just be ruining the ability of the stone to actually cut as intended, causing the edge to just be burnished. I feel that they need to offer more choices of stones if they want a finer cut, at minimum something like 250 & 1000, maybe then 2000 & 4-5000. Then they could actually include the properby YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Gransfors ceramic pucks - 1 year ago
Japanese Axe Puck Waterstone for $5 Maybe this is the route you should go Kyley, price is right depending on how you can source it.by YESH - When you can't have a lightsabre
Re: Sigma Power Select II / 1K - 1 year ago
I believe the Yahiko True Grit stones are in fact rebranded Sigma Power Select II, I have links above for them. At least Chef Knives To Go seems to think they are identical, I cannot confirm so YMMV or course.by YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Sigma Power Select II / 1K - 1 year ago
Cliff, Do you find that this stone works well for plateau sharpening as in generates a suitable type of slurry to minimize burr formation? Also, do you know if the 240 grit SPS II stone works well for lapping this stone to keep both of them flat and cutting well? BTW, if anybody is looking for a cheaper source for these stones.... it appears they are being sold under the 'Yahiko True Griby YESH - TuneUp's
Sharpening Large Recurves On Flat Benchstones - 1 year ago
I have a couple larger roughly 10" chopping blades that have a fairly mellow recurve to them, but not sure whether I need to pickup a curved stone to really address the edge properly. Though I haven't tried yet, I suspect a flat bench stone would work just fine... but obviously not ideal. Anybody here tried this before? Results or recommendations welcome, thanks!by YESH - TuneUp's
Re: Diamond Waterstones - 1 year ago
Maybe their perceived benefit in ending with 'healthier' edge to them, is a result of effectively using lower grit abrasive (hidden by binder, reducing cut depth) while simultaniously being able to use more force (without fear of damaging nickel plated diamonds). This allows them to have a better cutting speed (force applied) for a given abrasive rating (effectively like using higher grit stoneby YESH - TuneUp's